"Shoulder pads, colour, black and white, swimwear and swimwear with trousers. It's very fitted – its power dressing, but I wanted to create a piece women don't already have in their wardrobe."
-Roland Mouret to Vogue.com
The first thing that came to mind as I scrolled through Roland Mouret's Spring/Summer 2013 collection is the use of geometry in Mouret's effortlessly intricate creations. Every look concocted in the collection was a kaleidoscope of prints and fabrics; a collage stitched with an unlimited amount of cuts, folds, and pleats. Never was there a single-colored dress or an ensemble with a flat surface. Instead, the collection was created for the powerful, working woman but with a twist, just as Roland himself described to Vogue UK. It was the tailoring of each outfit which gave it character, and the use of geometric shapes which brought his Spring collection to a whole new level.
There was a suitable amount of color-blocking in the collection, done in a supremely chic fashion. Cream-colored office skirts were combined with shocking shades of red in the form of a cutting-edge leather jacket. (Note the stitching of the sleeves, above.) Striking hues of forest green were prominent in the collection, and solidified the theme of subdued, subtle colors. In terms of beauty, the models donned a clean, feminine look but brought on a vibe of cold beauty with bold, feline-esque eyeliner. Although Mouret's creations in this collection were mostly fitted, there is a fluidity to the structure of the clothes. The pleats and peplum-style cuts gave the outfits a beautiful sense of motion.
Crisply-cut pantsuits were an empowering combination, as they were paired with pearl-white sleeveless tops that off-duty models are sure to be seen in over the next year. Mouret continues to give his clothes an intimidating feel; his outfits possess beauty but it is done in such a nonchalant, androgynous way.
For the most part, the collection did not feature strong, candy-coated shades. Even the use of red was exquisitely used to reflect what the authoritative working woman seeks in her wardrobe. However, eighties-style boxy jackets with large, square-cut shoulders were done in fantastic shades of orange. Thankfully, Mouret did not stray away from his trademark fitting skills and added a touch of folds and color-blocking in the suit-and-skirt looks.
Personally, my heart belongs to the outfits which held a series of stunning complex origami cuts. Triangular shapes and pleats made multiple appearances in the collection. Above, the classic black and white looks were folded in such a way that simplicity cannot be used to describe them. One-shoulder tops were cut in a zig-zag pattern, with glimpses of black and white in between. The look on the right was elaborately constructed, with a white peter-pan collar and multiple architectural additions, such as the square and triangle figures.
My overall view of the collection is intensified due to my pride at having seen Roland Mouret with my own eyes at the Audi Fashion Festival in Singapore. I was incredibly lucky to have witnessed Mouret's Fall/Winter 2012 runway collection and to have seen the incredibly talented designer take a bow at the end of such a beautiful show. His Spring/Summer 2013 collection is just a powerful as his Fall 2012 collection, perhaps even more, and am I delighted to have seen his ensembles in person.